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Gyeongju: Korea's Ancient Capital That Most Tourists Skip, Gyeongju was the capital of the Silla Kingdom for nearly a millennium — from around 57 BC until 935 AD, when the dynasty finally fell to the Goryeo Kingdom. At its height, Silla-era Gyeongju was one of the largest cities in the world. Arab traders wrote about it. Chinese diplomatic records described it as a city of gold. Buddhist temples, astronomical observatories, royal tombs, stone pagodas, and palace gardens were built here over centuries of sophisticated civilization, and an astonishing amount of it has survived.

The DMZ: What It's Actually Like to Visit the World's Most Tense Border, There is a moment — it comes to almost every visitor — somewhere between the military briefing room and the first stretch of barbed wire fence, when the abstract becomes concrete. You have known about this place. You have read about it. You may have seen it in documentaries, in news footage, in the background of political speeches. But standing here, looking north across a valley that has been emptied of people for more than seventy years, the Korean DMZ stops being a concept and becomes something you feel in the body.